“I wonder anybody does anything at Oxford but dream and remember, the place is so beautiful” - William Butler Yeats
Oxford was a strategic town long before its famous university was founded. Standing on the banks of the River Isis, which later becomes the River Thames, it was a place where the cattle were driven across the river. As a ford for the oxen, it is clear how the name "Oxford" came about. Now a graceful city nicknamed the "City of dreaming spires" for its magnificent church and college architecture, it is a wonderful place to visit.
Most people have some knowledge of Oxford from art, literature, films and TV. The best way to get to know the city for yourself is by taking a guided walking tour. The guides have permission to enter many of the college gardens and dormitories which are otherwise not open to the general public. As well as giving the history of these magnificent buildings, they will also describe the life of these elite scholars. For example, in Christ Church dining hall, students eat at long refectory tables and grace is still said in Latin!
Carfax is the centre of Oxford where the four main streets intersect. You can climb up the 99 steps of Carfax Tower, all that remains of St Martins Church, and get some great views over the compact city and countryside. The bell tower has two "quarter boys" that strike every quarter hour. Make a note to look for the blackened burn marks by the cross on nearby Broad Street where Archbishop Cranmer and two other bishops were burned alive by Queen Mary in the mid-16th century for their protestant faith.
Historians will appreciate a visit to the Ashmolean Museum including the splendid neo-classical building in which its treasures are housed. It was the first museum in the world, opened in 1683 to house a collection of curios collected by John Tradescant and his son on their voyages to the Orient and the Americas. They were travelers well ahead of their time! The collection was acquired by Elias Ashmole who donated it to the University. The museum has expanded to include magnificent artworks, a coin collection and the magnificent 9th century gold enameled ring known as the Alfred Jewel.
Oxford has its own castle, dating back 1000 years, which was actually used as a prison until 1996. The "Oxford Castle Unlocked" attraction with its costumed guides reveals the area's fascinating past. More treats are in store in the Sheldonian Theatre which was designed by Christopher Wren, based on the Theatre of Marcellus in Rome. It was paid for by the Archbishop of Canterbury in 1669 and is the magnificent setting for degree ceremonies.
Exploring a few of the 36 colleges which make up the oldest university in the English-speaking world is an important part of any visit to Oxford. The colleges were founded between the 13th and 16th centuries, although women were not allowed to attend until 1878. The buildings closely resemble monastery buildings with decorative gargoyles and beautiful gardens. Oxford fortunately survived World War 2 intact as Hitler intended it to be his capital city when he conquered England.
The best known and grandest college is Christ Church and its 800-year old college chapel is also known as the Cathedral of Oxford. It has a magnificent beamed ceiling, beautiful stained glass windows and a fine collection of Renaissance paintings in the Gallery. Other buildings in the complex include Tom Tower, built by Christopher Wren to hold the Great Tom Bell. It rang 101 times, (once for each student, when it was hung in 1648) at 9.05pm to mark the curfew for the students!
If you have time, fit in a visit to the Bodleian Library which is entitled to receive a copy of every book published in Britain. The baroque domed building known as the Radcliffe Camera is right next door.
When you have had your fill of history and culture, walk through the meadows behind the college buildings to the River Isis and hire a romantic punt or rowing boat to explore Oxford's lovely countryside. Dine at one of Oxford's fine restaurants and historic pubs and imagine those who have supped ale at that self-same bar, including many British Prime Ministers, poets and writers such as C.S.Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien.
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