The Pleasures of Portsmouth
Portsmouth, England’s only island city, is located on Portsea Island, although visitors hardly notice the small strip of water separating it from the mainland. The city looks south across the tidal waters of the Solent to the northeast coast of the Isle of Wight. It is a great place to spend the day exploring, just 75 miles southwest of London along the scenic A3.
Strategically placed in the center of England’s south coast, Portsmouth has been a naval port for centuries and is the main base for the Royal Navy and the elite Royal Marine Commandoes. Consequently Portsmouth has a colorful history and some wonderful attractions to visit around its historic harbor and docks.
The Portsmouth Historic Dockyard is now the permanent resting place of some great ships including Lord Nelson’s flagship, HMS Victory; HMS Warrior and Henry VIII’s pride and joy, the 16th century Mary Rose. The complex includes several museums, ships and tours and the all-inclusive ticket is reasonably priced.
HMS Warrior is now a museum ship which can be visited at the Historic Dockyard. Launched in 1860, it was the largest, fastest and most heavily armed ship in the world at that time, and the iron hull and armor plate ensured it remained in active service until 1883. Wonderfully restored, a tour of this ship from engine room to rigging including the restored cannons is a superb experience.
Older than the Warrior by more than a century is HMS Victory, famous as the flagship of Lord Nelson on which he died at the decisive Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. Incidentally, Trafalgar Square in London was built to commemorate this epic battle and Nelson’s column was erected to honor the great Admiral. HMS Victory remains the star of the British fleet and is the oldest commissioned warship in the world. Guided tours of the restored battleship, complete with impressive gun deck and Nelson’s cabin, can be enjoyed from its dry dock position in Portsmouth’s historic dockyard.
Oldest by far is the Mary Rose, which unfortunately sank in 1545 in full view of the king in a battle with the French fleet. It was dredged from the seabed in 1982 after 437 years in the mud and the fragile remains were stabilized and preserved. The exceptional collection of artifacts recovered at the same time includes personal, domestic and military objects and they are on show in the Mary Rose Museum. Unfortunately the hull of the Mary Rose is currently not on display as it is being worked on and a brand new £35 million boat-shaped museum is under construction. The grand reopening is scheduled for summer 2012.
A narrated boat trip around the harbour is an exciting way to see the whole spread of the historic dockyards. The captain will point out the current naval ships, aircraft carriers and submarines which may be moored in the working naval port awaiting deployment.
The Royal Navy Museum is well-laid out and very interesting with award-winning exhibitions and a vast collection of artifacts. One particularly interesting gallery focuses on the tales of real-life naval experiences as told by former navy personnel. Another gallery sets the scene of 18th century manual laborers in the Dockyard Apprentice display.
For those who find half a day of war stories and naval history quite sufficient, the newly redeveloped area of Portsmouth Harbour, Gunwharf Quays, is within easy strolling distance from the historic docks. The landmark Spinnaker Tower makes the area easy to locate. The sail-like structure has a triple observation deck with a crow’s nest and a glass floor, which provides great views of the city of Portsmouth, the harbors of Langstone and Portsmouth and glimpses across the Solent to the distant Isle of Wight. At the foot of this 170 meter (557-foot) tall structure there is a fine area of retail shops, restaurants and outdoor coffee bars which are great antidote for weary feet!
Those fortunate enough to be visiting the Portsmouth area in May will also see the Tall Ships tied up at the state pier. Would-be sailors can sign up for the opportunity to crew these ocean-going vessels alongside young people with special needs in this worthwhile charitable cause. The Fleet Open Day is on May 14th at Gunwharf Quay.
Other events to prolong your visit to Portsmouth are the Farmer’s Market on May 16th and the splendid Lord Mayor’s Parade on May 18th. Those who enjoy stirring Brass Band music will not want to miss the Royal Marines Concert Band performing on May 27th.
|
|
|
